If you have mastered taping a regular drywall joint,you are now ready to try an inside corner. I have a method forinside corners that provides near professional results. It involvesa few more steps however than what some others may show you. The stepsshown on this page are for a regular 90-degree inside corner.Do you have a corner that is over 90degrees?

You are interested in: Drywall rounded corners photos. (Here are selected photos on this topic, but full relevance is not guaranteed.) If you find that some photos violates copyright or have unacceptable properties, please inform us about it. Explore carol calder's board 'dry wall corners' on Pinterest. See more ideas about Drywall corners, Baseboard and Baseboards.

If so,Preparation - Read the.It will make it easier to successfully follow the needed steps. Also, watch my video at the bottom of this page to get a good overview of the steps. Make sure all drywall is securelyfastened on both sides of the corner. There should beto secure the drywall. If you have gaps between sheets more than 1/8'at the corner, fill gaps with a low shrinkage.Applying the Tape - Precut your paper tape the length of thejoint. Also prefold the paper tape so it is easier to fold when youare ready to apply it. I would avoid metal-backed inside cornersavailable since they are notorious for improperly adhering (and thuscausing air pockets) if the corner is not perfectly uniform - stick withplain old.Are you taping a corner where 2 other corners meet?Thin the mud a little by dipping your taping knife in water and mixing in.

Apply slightly-thinned mud on each sideof the corner. You should place adequate mud on each side (and the corneritself) so there will be no voids or bare spots when the paper is applied.The mud should be applied about 2 inches wide on each side of thecorner.Quickly pass your paper tape. Fold the wet tape and apply to thecorner by hand. Press the inside of the corner in as far as possibleto avoid any pockets. Wet your 4 or4.5 inch taping knife downwith water. Then, hold the tape at the top and draw your 4 or 4.5inch knife down each side of the corner, applying pressure to squeeze outmud from under the tape.

Avoid snagging at the corner itself. You may notice that the tape will startto 'bunch up' a little. When this happens, pull the tape down frombelow to get rid of the slack.Watch aVideo of Me Taping an Inside Corner!Check out my other DIY sites.

Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors.Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker for this site.Apply More Coats - Before applying any coats, use your 4.5 inch dry knife to scrape the surface and knock off any bumps or ridges off the dried coat - it is important that you have level surfaces. Do not sand until the very end - rather use your taping knife to level the surface. Use the 4 or 4.5 inch knife to place a 3 to 4 inch wide coat of mud on each side of the corner that isabout 1/2 inch from the corner as shown below on the left. Wet the knife down by dipping in water and skim the mud up (or down)the entire length, exerting enough pressure to make a thin uniform coat as shown below on the right.Do this on both sides of the corner. You now will have a recess atthe corner to be filled in with the next coat using a cornertool!Apply another coat on each side right up to, and into, the corner - it should extend about 2 inches from the corner in each direction.

Then use a, that has been dipped in water to firmly skim off the mud, as shown below. I find it easier to work top to bottom. You can see how the mud has been applied and I am skimming it level in the photo below.Apply 5' to 6' widecoats on each side of the corner taking care to stay about 1/2' to 1' from the corner.

Round Or Square Drywall Corners

Pictures of rounded drywall corners wall

Use a 10 or 12 inchtaping knife to skim off these coats on each side of the corner. Delete advanced computer system repair malware protection. Usesufficient pressure so there is not a buildup near the corner.If you have created a new recession at thecorner, use the corner tool to fill it in although youshouldn't have to if the coat was thin enough and enough pressure was usedin drawing down the coat.

Otherwise, fill in any drag marks with a smallamount of thinned mud by drawing down the knife perpendicular to the mark.Fill in any voids as well. If you are seeing faint washboard-like waveseven after knocking down the surface, you can remedy this nicely byapplying a very thin coat of thinned mud drawn perpendicular to the waves- this is a much better move than trying to sand the surface level!When this step is completed, you should have a wallthat would look half-way decent even if you did not sand.of thewall I have been documenting for this site before sanding.Lightly Sand, Prime, and Paint - Lightly and sparinglysand with 220 grit paper on a 3' by 8' sanding block. For problemareas such as the meeting of two corners at the ceiling, you may needcoarser grit paper but use it with restraint! Vacuum the surface off.Shine aor lamp at a low angle to see any scratches, voids, or drag marks thatneed to be filled in. Use small amounts of thinned mud firmly drawndown with the 4.5' or 10' knife (I like to use the 4.5 inch knife forthis). If your job passes the low angle light test, you have acompleted the job well.Avoid sanding the paper surface of the drywall!Prime with a latexprimer.

Don't work the primer around too much - it can liftcompound! Paint with a latex paint.

Note that some primersrequire you to paint within 48 hours of priming.Show your friends thenice job you did. ( of thepainted wall I documented for this site) Tell them about this web sitedrywallinfo.com!Search Drywallinfo Using Search Box Above!Copyright 2014 - Michael Sakowski.